La Loupe Logo Menü öffnen Menü schließen
Vom Big Apple an den Arlberg

Lech & Zürs

Vom Big Apple an den Arlberg

Interview mit Max Natmessnig, Küchenchef im Rote Wand Chef’s Table

Die Heidelbeer-Marmelade ist schon eingemacht, und auch die eingelegten Zwetschken warten bereits darauf, in feine Desserts verwandelt zu werden. Seit Juni 2017 ist Max Natmessnig neuer Küchenchef des Chef’s Table in Joschi Walchs Schualhus – nun bereitet er sich auf seine erste Wintersaison am Arlberg vor. „Es ist toll, dass wir hier oben so viel selbst machen. Aus den regionalen vo:dô-Produkten stellen wir selbst Köstlichkeiten wie Schweine-Paté, eigene Rohmilchbutter und Sauerteigbrot her – das ist wirklich einzigartig“, schwärmt der gebürtige Niederösterreicher.

Nach seiner Matura hospitierte er im legendären Auberge de l'Ill im Elsass und entschied sich daraufhin, Koch zu werden. Es folgten Abstecher in Spitzenrestaurants auf der ganzen Welt, nun ist der 29-Jährige in Zug angekommen und darf sich in den Hochalpen erstmalig als Küchenchef unter Beweis stellen. Im Interview mit La Loupe erzählt Max Natmessnig von seinem ersten Treffen mit Joschi Walch in New York, bringt uns seinen Küchenstil nahe und macht uns die Vorzüge des Arlbergs schmackhaft.

„Ich wusste gleich, dass der Chef’s Table im Schualhus etwas sehr Besonderes ist.“

La Loupe Max Natmessnig Lech 1 75im3xibj

Max Natmessnig

L.L./ Mr Natmessnig, you met the restaurant and hotel owner from Lech, Joschi Walch, at the Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare in New York, where you were working as chef de partie at the time. What was your first impression of the host at Alpen Sport Resort Rote Wand?

M.N./ He seemed like a genuinely nice person and he talked to me very openly, because up until then I had not heard about the Chef’s Table at Schualhus. So, my first impression was really good.

L.L./ It was the same Joschi Walch who convinced you to become chef de cuisine at Schualhus in Zug/Lech. Were you all for the idea right away or did it take some coaxing?

M.N./ I knew right away that the Chef’s Table at Schualhus is something very special and that you don’t get a chance like that often in your life. Which is why I took it immediately. At the time I had been in New York for more than four years already, so I was ready for the next step. At first I had the idea of setting up something of my own in New York but that was not made easy for me. Consequently, Joschi Walch’s offer came just at the right time.

„Es war immer mein Ziel, mit Spitzenköchen in kleinen Restaurants zu arbeiten, so konnte ich ihnen direkt über die Schulter blicken und eine Menge mitnehmen.“

L.L./ You learned from the best and you were able to gather know-how with chefs like Sergio Herman and César Ramirez. What kind of influence did these personalities have on your career?

M.N./ They influenced me in terms of discipline and dealing with food. They taught me that it’s imperative to treat the products with the greatest respect. And thanks to them I was able to refine my technique, too. It was important to me to work with these personalities in order to get to know their vision of cooking. It had always been my goal to work with great chefs in small restaurants, that way I was always able to look over their shoulders and learn a lot from them.

L.L./ Your style of cooking is described as fresh, light, and clean. What does that mean, exactly?

M.N./ We focus on one product in particular, which is then prepared as authentically as possible. I don’t want to confuse the guest, I want to be straight forward. I love anything pure, which is why in the end the dish must be perfect. Generally, I think one can never stand still, it’s important to keep trying new things and keep developing. Cooking is a continuous process.

„Wir konzentrieren uns auf ein Hauptprodukt, das ganz unverfälscht zubereitet wird.“

L.L./ You last worked at for the restaurant Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare, which is decorated with three Michelin-stars. And now at the Rote Wand Chef’s Table in Schualhus you and other chefs cook for 16 gourmets in a private setting. Does it make you nervous that the guests can peek into your pots?

M.N./ Brooklyn Fare was a bit larger. Cooking directly with the guests does not make me nervous any more, maybe it did in the beginning in New York, but by now it’s become business.

M.N./ The Chef’s Table has advantages, of course: I am in direct contact with the guest, the style is very modern and the chefs receive immediate feedback. Seeing as the guest can observe the entire process and is served the dish while the plate is still hot they get a better grasp of the level of quality. After all there are only three footsteps between kitchen and epicure.

L.L./ The experience at the Chef’s Table is intense. What do you pay particular attention to?

M.N./ What’s most important to me is that the guest is comfortable, that they can identify with the food and that the dishes taste really good.

La Loupe Max Natmessnig Lech 4 75im3xibk

„Ich bin davon überzeugt, dass es viel wichtiger ist, seinen eigenen Stil zu finden, als Trends zu folgen.“

L.L./ No matter if it’s Käsknöpfle (a type of pasta-bake with cheese) or fondue – the region around Lech Zürs offers numerous classics. How hard is it to combine traditional fare with new influences?

M.N./ It’s a trend that other chefs follow, we at Chef’s Table don’t do that. We take the product and make something completely new with it. I don’t interpret classics, that’s not my vision. We focus on regional and Austrian products.

L.L./ High-quality products form the basis of every good dish. What aspects are particularly important to you?

M.N./ The taste is what’s most important – and how the product came to taste the way it does, so who’s behind it. Joschi Walch has great contacts with the best producers and it really is a privilege to be able to work with them.

„Unser Augenmerk liegt auf den Produkten aus der Region und aus Österreich.“

L.L./ What do you think characterises 21st century gourmet cuisine?

M.N./ That’s a difficult question, seeing as I can’t see the future and there really are no trends yet. Regionality and molecular cuisine – those have been the strongest trends so far, but I don’t know what the next big step will be. However, I am convinced that it’s more important to find one’s own style rather than follow trends. At only 29 I’m still too young to have my own style, I think that’s something you develop after long years of experience.

L.L./ You have been chef de cuisine at the Schualhus’ Chef’s Table since June and have thus also transferred the centre of your life to Lech Zürs. What do you like about the destination on the Arlberg?

M.N./ The nature is wonderful, you can go hiking or fishing – and the air is so fresh and clean. You’re in the middle of the mountains, it’s very cosy and a complete contrast to the city where I enjoyed going out to eat on a night off. Here I simply cook at home with my girlfriend. In between seasons I am drawn back to the big city though.

La Loupe Max Natmessnig Lech 2 75im3xibl

Max Natmessnig im Wordrap

Die Nachfolge von Drei-Hauben-Koch Manuel Grabner. Druck oder Ansporn? Ansporn.

Am liebsten esse ich: italienisch.

Von schneller Küche halte ich ... viel. Wenn es nicht Fast Food ist.

Diese Arlberger Spezialität muss man unbedingt probieren: Fondue.

Ein gutes Menü braucht mindestens ... 3 ... Gänge.

Hier finde ich Inspiration für neue Menükompositionen: In der Natur.

Max Natmessnig

Der Niederösterreicher Max Natmessnig machte seine ersten Kocherfahrungen im Steirereck in Wien, lernte dann beim holländischen Spitzenkoch Sergio Herman und arbeitete schließlich für den aktuell weltbesten Chef Daniel Humm im New Yorker Nomad. Die letzten drei Jahre war er die rechte Hand des Drei-Sterne-Kochs César Ramirez im Brooklyn Fare. Seit Juni 2017 zeigt er als Küchenchef im Rote Wand Chef’s Table in Zug sein Können.

Rote Wand Chef’s Table

Zug 5, 6764 Lech am Arlberg

+43 5583 / 34350

gasthof@rotewand.com

www.rotewand.com


Lech & Zürs

Guide


Folge uns Facebook Instagram